Here we are again, back from our weekend jaunt to support the Groupment des Motards Breton (GMB), on the ride out from Vannes to Questembert on Sunday 30th of March 2008, in aid of the charity, l'association pour la recherché sur la sclérosis en plaques (ARSEP) Multiple Sclerosis Research.
Which hopefully we all paid up our 5€ per person??? This is what the whole weekend is about, ie supporting the charity, & having a good time. Okay that said, lets get down to what happened, but before I start, this is my account of what went on. If anyone else wants to add, please feel free to give your story to Chris Wrench, so he can add or incorporate yours into mine, or visa versa
Friday 28th,
My mobile rings at 7.05am?????????? It's René!! He has heard on the radio that all ferries have been cancelled, "GREAT” I said to myself, “that's all I need. Spend all year sorting it out etc and this happens”. Then I remembered what Carrie told me. “See you at the boat”, I said, as Carrie went on line or called Condor the day before and the only boat to sail would be ours. But one hour earlier than advertised, so I had to cancel a booking with the Half Moon cafe re breakfast for 20 plus hungry mouths at 9.30am.
So a quick shower etc load bike then leave home at 9.15am for 9.30 check in. weather a bit wet. “Fan bloody tastic" I said to myself. I had promised the club a sunny weekend, and this wasn't a good start!! I am going to get it in the ole ear hole from Monsieur Brouard for sure. He always knows what the weather is going to be, due to his fascination with weather forecasters. He told me rain all weekend. "Bugger" I said, “I must stop talking to myself!!”
Martyn and Jackie turned up with their Huge 4x4 instead of the Goldiewingythingy as he hasn’t been well re a bit of flu? So thought at the last minute to change, from bike to car. Bet he wished he hadn’t when he saw the brilliant weather, hear that Mark?? Har! Har!
Geoff Orme asked if Tracey could ride a scooter onto the boat and drop it off at the compound in St Malo so he was there with the scoot, he said thanks and was gone.
Me and Tracey took a couple of Stugeron tabs just in case, and one more to be safe. It worked, even though the sea had a chop it was a nice trip.
Stop at Jersey to let on some Crapauds, and on our way arriving in St Malo at about 2.30 ish maybe later, not sure, who cares anyway!!
Tracey dropped off scooter for Geoff's mate at the terminal building and dropped the keys in as well to Condor.
Then it’s on our way to Vannes, enroute via Josselin? Or so I thought. I had programmed into my new GPS, a nice country side route stopping for coffee on the way as you do in Josselin. Wrong!!! Before I started, I pushed what I thought was the route, but pressed La Marébaudiére Hotel instead, so we didn't get our coffee and cake. But there was some sun!!!! Eh Mark!!
So straight to the hotel arriving at 4.50pm, checked in, unpacked, and had a nice shower and meet everyone in reception ready for dinner.
Martyn Brehaut took us to a nice restaurant called, Chez la Mérle, and I had the best steak ever!!!!!!! And Ben Lowndes had the same. Tre Bon it was!! Everyone else said their meal was superb as well so this eatery is recommended.
We then walked down to the sea front and had a night cap in the Ocean Bar, and back to the billet as PR would say.
Got caught in a heavy shower on the way back. Still we didn't melt, did we?? PS. Martyn had a dinky umbrella. But wouldn’t let us go under it.
Saturday 29th
Woke up to sunny skies. Whippee (whoopee) for Rodney. Eat breakfast. Now, this breakfast has to be seen to be believed. You can have ham, cheese 3 types, yoghurt 3 flavours, jams 6 types ,honey, nutella, fruit juices, French bread, croissants, pain au chocolate, pain au raison, coffee, tea, hot chocolate, cereal 3 types, eggs, juice etc etc. there was probably more but have forgotten. And all for 9€.
I made a suggestion, about going to the Vannes market, and quite a few of you went down about 9.30am, and you know, it was sunny again, (“can this weather get any better”!!).After the market, we went to Rochefort en Terre, about 25 k away for lunch, but everywhere was packed due to about 100 other bikers being in town as well. We tried a couple of places and were told we would have to wait at least half an hour or more. So we tried the other end of town, and we found an empty bar restaurant wow!!!,?? So in we go and there are two men at the bar but no staff, so we wait. And then this little man wanders out, doing up his flies, and we thought “oh yes another Rodney”, (never washes his hands after a pee) his words to Mark, not mine. So off we went still in search of the elusive lunch, eventually we decided to go back to the first place we tried to get in and low and behold he said 5 mins ,but it would have to be outside. We were getting hungry so said yes please. 5 mins go by and nothing, then ten bikers came out whippee or whoopee, I thought, so in we went.
Omelette and chips all round, & some crusty French bread and butter. Martyn Brehaut started eating off a plate then found out it was Hazel Le Page’s meal (Clive’s wife.) he didn’t reimburse her either!! I thought it was a bit much 2 chips and all!! After lunch Chris Wrench said he fancied a blip around the country and head back towards Vannes port and a coffee. So after that it was back to the hotel for a quick shower, put on the loud shirts and all met up in reception for 7.00pm,then a leisurely stroll down to La Brasserie des Halles for the club dinner, where we all eat together for the only time of the weekend, as it’s too much for us all to go a la Carte in one venue. (Editors note only 3 of us wore load shirts ,even the Ewin bros the loudest of loud shirt wearers didn’t wear theirs????)
So we split up for the other nights, I think the parties were about 14 persons at a time for most dinners. I said a couple of thank you’s, then Tracey did the same, and then Rodney Whitford got up and jokingly had a go at me on all the downs of the trip (not the ups) just the downs.
Like the boat being late?? Like the rain before going on the boat?? No breakfast?? Etc etc.
I was laughing so much my jaw was aching. He should be on stage, with Harry would be good as well. No complaints re the meal. All good, mine was fabulous. So that’s all right then.
Sunday 8.30 am.
Wake up shower, breakfast, everyone is there already, and asking what time to meet up re the ride out, so I said 11.00am leave hotel, what I didn’t realise is that we (me & Trace) forgot to adjust our watches, so we had to crack on a bit to make sure we were ready to go on time. So at 11 we all went en masse to the Ocean bar for some more coffee etc and watch the bikes arrive, and you know what? It was sunny again, no rain all day. And it was hot, so hot some of us even got a sun tan, eh Rod?? We headed to the bike park paid the 5€ each person or motards, as the French bikers are called. We were asked if the press could interview us so yours truly was summoned and I was interview re why we were there and about the charity,
Where we were from, how many of us how many bikes etc etc, and we had a picture and interview in Le Télégramme, and an interview in Ouest-France.
We left Vannes on the ride at about 1.30pm and arrived in Questembert, our destination, at 3pm ish?? We had a snack looked at the other bikes, had a chat, bought some T shirts etc. Then we rode back to Vannes, and the Ocean bar for a beer etc, and then to the hotel for a shower and change for our last night out on the town!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
We decided on pizza, but on the way there, lost some of our crew, so after 10 mins or so I phoned only to be told that they had gone somewhere else, anyway we eventually found them and had a good laugh, and some good grub as well. I was a bit knackered from the long day so me, Tracey, Martyn and Jackie headed back to the hotel. Not sure what the others did??
They did follow for a time and then disappeared!
Monday 31st
8.00am shower, and breakfast, then back upstairs to pack our bags. Then pay the bill, load the bikes, and ready to leave at 9.30ish, we said our good byes to the reception staff, (PS I have booked 25 rooms for next year, and they will email me when they know the dates of the ride.) So off we go heading for the tower at Ploubalay, for lunch, with a stop for coffee at a town called Gael, after leaving Gael it started to rain,( Mark was so pleased)?? So I radioed that we were going to stop and put on our waterproofs, I thought he said they were as well, but when we carried on we couldn’t catch them up, or get them on the radio, so we went on our own to Dinan (thinking we probably wouldn’t see anything from the tower due to the mist) and had lunch with Alan’s crew and Tony Vile’s crew, who were all together in one restaurant After a heavy lunch (I was bloated), Tony’s crew were still at it with huge desserts, they must all have hollow legs, we paid our bill and headed for La Madelaine shopping centre where we were going to meet M&J Brehaut but as we arrived they were just about to leave and told us Mark B and the rest of them were lunching inside so we went in, had a chat ,and did a bit of shopping, then it was straight to the boat at 5.00pm, checked in and they sent us straight onboard. We took the obligatory Stugeron + 1 and sit down in our seats, to Jersey was OK, then out of Jersey we hit some bad water, which made me feel very unwell, and it also caused the biggest damper of the trip by making Rodney & Sue’s bike fall against Steve & Tracey Spencer’s Goldie, Rods coming off worst with a scratched and broken fairing, split screen etc. He was not amused to say the least, he’s not scared of telling the staff where to go?? Anyway Rod told me he’s been to the insurer’s and they are looking into it. Meanwhile Mark, Rods son, is looking after the bike at his work (Millards) and is waiting for instruction from the insurers for repairs to the Thundercat.
Rod was told that a taxi would take himself and Sue to their friends house, where they are staying, but when they went to see the staff at the Condor office it was closed!!!! But as luck would have it an employee of the company kindly gave Sue & Rod a lift home.
We were all home by about 9.00 ish I would think, and I was sound’o by 10.00 on the couch and in bed by 10.30pm.
This was my 5th attempt, at organising the Vannes Trip, and apart from Rod & Sue’s problem.
I would say it was a success as quite a few of you, have come up and told me so.
I will be pleased to arrange next year’s trip, and as you can see I have already booked 25 of the hotels rooms!!
So if you want to put your names down, please do so ASAP. I know it’s a bit early ha!Ha!
PS we only had 3 cancellations, one was due to their sons birthday, one was due to a shoulder injury, and one was due to there being no garlic bread on the menu for the Sat night dinner, this person, also having quit the club over the bread?????There is just no pleasing some folk EH????
Yours Truly,
Steve C, your friendly GTMC Secretary.
ANNUAL DINNER DANCE
NOW, WAS THAT A GOOD EVENING OR WHAT?
A BIG THANK YOU TO ANDY & CARRIE EWIN FOR A WELL ORGANIZED EVENING.
HOPEFULLY THERE WILL BE MORE PHOTO'S TO COME SOON.
HAVE A LOOK ON THE GALLERY PAGE.
Hi
Just a 'wee' note to say thanks for a wonderful time on Friday at the Christmas party - well done the organisers.
Great venue, great food & wine, good music and wonderful company!
It was our first time attending and can't wait 'till next year - but then why should we - we should organise something quite soon?
Thanks again
Linda & Phil Martin
Thank You!!
Dear All
Just a quick thank you to the GTMC for the lovely flowers that were given to me for organising the Christmas Party.
It was a great evening and I am really glad that everyone enjoyed themselves.
I did a write up of the Honfleur trip last year and as that one was a success, I have been asked by a third party to write another on this years shenanigans.
So here goes again, problem is remembering how things happened and times etc.
Well as you know Andy Ewin organised this trip again, and did a brilliant job , from sorting out deposits and giving them back again, phew ! needed those euros .as you will read later.
Up at the crack of dawn, hadn,t slept a bloody wink all night, too excited I hear you say, probably right as well.
I had only got back from Cyprus on the Monday night and out on the Friday 8.30 am boat check in at 7.30am which meant getting up at about 6.00am.
I.m tired just recapping. No sleep you see.????
No chance for brekkies at home, so ate a buttie on the boat,
We bumped into Vanessa Bourgaize on the boat and chatted the whole time it’s a shame we didn’t get a word in.
The sea was like a mill pond, the lads played cards and all lost to Markus Brouardus the infamous Roman card shark, his fav game is two handed brag. He won about 80 euros from them they were like lambs to the slaughter, he paid for every meal almost, just with his winnings he ! he !.
We had to go through JY on the way but still arrived in St Malo about One o’clock ish. So orf we went on the bloody gps’s towards Honfleur in a round about way through some picturesque villages, as you do?
We stopped for lunch, at a non descript town, (looked dead to me) we parked up and across the road there was this Italian style restaurant which looked like it was closed? As it happened it was open and after a bit of a wait as it was full of the locals, we were showed to our table, everyone has either pizza or Pasta Carbonara,
I had the slimming Paysanne salad, bloody hell it were huge, I say huge it were.
Off again on our trusty steeds, mine being BMW's latest GS the Adventurer 1200, the absolute Dogs Bollocks if ever, ps it’s def better than my old 1150, only snag and F**cking frustrating, was the fact I was limited to 4000 rpm and that worked out at only 70 mph max eh Phil.
The trip there was uneventful and we arrived at the B&B late afternoon.
The 3 Musketeers me John Roberts and our mate John Freestone were roomies for the duration.
After showers we walked to the town centre, (me and Trace were here 6 weeks ago, and it was bustling with all the restaurants having extended dining area's outside), this not being the case as it was now out of season, and a tad colder.
Anyway we went to our fav restaurant opp the bike park and sat down to umpteen bottles of the local wine, very nice it was too, and a 3 course meal even if it cost 40 euros wow !!!
I had soup du poisson (fish soup) nice!!!!!!!!! Followed by chicken, and then choc pudding.
JD & Coke Night caps for the lads @ Jason & Andys room.
Absolutely tired out, hit the bed and slept soundly till 7.30 am shower and B&B breakfast unlimited. But there is only so much one can eat eh Mark.
Day two (Saturday) ,B&B breakfast and a message from TQ to say he was on the ferry to us as we speak, saying he would be with us for the evening meal. anyway, I have offered my massive and hugely extensive knowledge of Normandy?? And taken everyone 20 miles east of Honfleur to a town called Pont Audermer, which is steeped in history, it is well worth a visit and a walk around the town followed by a Grande Café crème at a pavement café , next it’s Chris Smiths turn to wow us, and he takes us to a town called Brionne, this town looked deader than the deadest town one could wish to visit, But it did have something up it’s sleeve in the fact that it had a ,WAIT for it, a Kebab shop, in fact rumour has it that this is the best Kebab shop in the whole of Normandy, well I just had to have one, + chips of course, Martyn wanted one but he and everyone else settled for a baguette (boring or what)??? But the best was yet to come, Jason had bought a bag of doughnuts, and he offered them around, they were absolutely delicious cheers mate. ps by now I’m putting on a pound or two???????? know what I mean.
TQ has unpacked his pack horse (FJR 1300) and is raring to go to town to eat asap.
First we go for a quiet drink at the ( Melody bar)
Then we go to a restaurant recommended to us by the hosts of the Melody bar and had a fantastic steak which had to be served to two persons, I shared mine with Mark as we both like Med/rare Andy and Steve Spenc like theirs Bien Qui or burnt to a crisp and it came out as a raw steak just seared on the outside, I would have sent it back?? Chris and Phil had a lovers tiff?? And Chris was in a sweary mood almost upsetting the English speaking patrons at the next table, we apologised to them on the way out on behalf of Chris who denied swearing at all.
Night caps for the lads at Andy & Jason for JD & Cokes.
TQ here, Friday 17:50 and I phone Condor to see if they have space, talk about leaving it late! I've spoken to the boy's in France to see if the mind me joining them, no problem is the reply. Sat and after a snooze on the boat I arrive in St Malo, a quick run up the N173 to the junction at the Cora, it's left onto the D4 for a more 'country' run to pick up the N176 towards Avranche. Resist the temptation to take the A84 and stay on the N road to Caen. After Caen I stay on the N175 towards Honfleur but then as I'm going well, I take a run in towards the lovely Suisse Normand district. This area is full of fast and empty roads, gorges and hills, rivers and forests and always makes for a good ride.
I eventualy reach the B&B in Honfleur, check in and get ready to hit the town.
Day 3 Sunday B&B breakfast @ 8.30 am, and a quick spin down to Trouville with Martyn & Mark John Freestone & John Roberts decide to join us. Nice town but JR drops the big GS 1200 in a slow manoeuvre which lands on his foot and puts him into a bit of delayed shock he was white as a sheet, a drink of water and a short rest and he is back in the saddle, and heading towards the hotel for 9.30 am departure for Dieppe, the preferred option for the day the other being Swiss Normandy which only 2 of our party went to. JR decides as it’s Sunday to have a day of rest!! And also to rest his foot which has swelled up to the size of a GSA fuel tank 33 litre?? Only joking ha! Ha!.
Dieppe all programmed into the bloody GPS’s, ready for the Pont de Normandy bridge, we follow Phil, do you know where this is going??
So we go on a bit of a detour and eventually get on track and go over the bridge, very impressive, brilliant views also, and free to bikes how cool is that, all other vehicles have to pay.
We arrive in Dieppe in time for eleven’s café crèmes all round, then the obliqitory lunch, then its off to Treport (by the way, on the way out of Dieppe a quad came hurling around the corner and almost hit Mark the rider panicked and mounted the pavement sending people scrambling out of the way from this idiot.,) care of Stevie Spencer at the controls, very nice in Treport.
Sunday night we go to this bar for a pre dinner drink and Steve Spencer attracts a friend he wished would just go away almost fisty cuffs then it’s back to our fav eatery for some more nosh.
ps we are on the bike s tonight as we have to be sober for the next days ride back to St Malo, so it’s cokes for most of us,
Then it’s off to the Melody Bar KARAOKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We are in our loud shirts and singing like Angels, we are hogging the mikes a bit and then try and encourage some of the other patrons to sing also, to say we enjoyed our selves is an understatement, it was a brilliant night.
Back to the B&B and a night cap for the lads of JD & coffee @ Andy & Jasons.
TQ again. Chris Smith and I decided to take a trip into Suisse Normande as he really hadn't been in that area before. We headed down to Putanges-Pont Ecrepin (honest) a place I had stayed on a couples trip. After lunch we take scenic ride and follow the river L'Orne north. We arrive at Clecy where the kayaking centre is. Above Clecy is the areas hangliding centre, so we head up there to watch some of the hangliders. Then it's time to head back to Honfleur passing through a village which was hosting a huge market/fair, I'am only sorry we didn't stop as it looked very interesting.
Then to bed, apparently I snore according to JR and kept him awake some of the night, sorry bud.
Up at 8.30 am ?? not sure about time as the clocks went back last night. Then it’s one last B&B breakfast before heading off at 9.30 am .
Only draw back it rained last night and more forecast for the ride back.
We set off in dry gear but a half our later it’s all change into wet weather gear, travelling on D roads with mud on the roads it covered our bikes especially mine in a thick layer of crap, my brand new baby covered in crap (she has been christened).
We stop in a town called Falaise for coffee and then for lunch not sure but the lady in the boulangerie made the best baguettes ever.
We arrive at the Terminal du Naye with about a half hour to spare before embarking on our homeward journey.
We were all a bit knackered and ready for our beds, but all in all a fantastic trip, thanks to you all for your friendship.
And look forward to doing it again next year.
If I have forgotten anything in this letter or offended anyone, well Bollocks anyway.
All the best,
Stevie C your friendly GTMC Secretary.
PS I have decided to buy a GPS for xmas
A Garmin Zumo version 10
PPS Phil Johns came up with an idea of (Coq of the trip) definition the person making the most balls ups on the weekend.
This was awarded to Chris Smith at the Nov meeting on Monday in the form of a certificate.
This is all just in jest and please take it on the chin or we will laugh even more.
JR thought he would get it for the slow speed tumble in Trouville, he was most upset cos he didn’t.
Well the time has come to get the bikes ready for the epic journey to Norway, land of the midnight sun and fjords, expensive hotels and ridiculously priced booze! The way I look at it is this, your only here for the one trip and your a long time in your box so, do something! Having just been to Belgium, Luxembourg, France amd Germany for the weekend (!) it was time to give the old girl's an oil change. First was the FJR with 24000 miles now on the clock a quick check-over and lube was needed. A set of the latest sexy Michelin Pilot Road 2's were fitted the day before the Belgium trip so are nice and scrubbed in, plus a set of crash bobbins (you never know), 4 ltrs of Rock Oil and a new filter. Then Ash decided to check the'Bird' over, clogged air filter was dumped and a new one fitted, oil and filter changed and Ash aslo had new rubber fitted for Belgium, so no problem there. We've been told about the low alcohol level for drivers. the giant mosquito's, the low maximum speed (80kph & 90kph motorways), the diet of herrings and the high cost of just about everything, but we're still going!
Sat 9th June
Well the time has come, tonight at 22.00 we leave Guernsey onboard the Commodore Clippper for Portsmouth. Friday night we were out with the wives for a dinner and after a few 'glasses' it was decided that it might be in our best interest, upon our arrival, to stop by the police station in Stavanger, drop them a few thousand krona in advance of any fines incurred. If there was any krona left, they can stick it the christmas fund!!
Sun 10th June
06.30 we set off from Portsmouth, then it's breakfast at the Ace Cafe before the run up to Newcastle-upon-Tyne for a 10pm ferry. On the way up it's a quick diversion onto the Yorkshire hills, Heartbeat country where a lot of bikers go on a Sunday, and they were everywhere. Why Newcastle? Well it's just easier that way and fits in with the Condor's timings too, what's the point of trying to go from St Malo, it's just too far and you might just as well be asleep or resting whilst the ferry takes the strain.
Mon 11th June
We get into Stavanger on the evening of the 11th, and it's off up the E39 for a night ride to Oppdal. As there is only 4 hours of dusk and we've spent so much time relaxing on the ferry, we might just as well get going rather than hang around Stavanger. The DFDS ferry 'Queen of Scandinavia' was very comfortable and the crossing was smooth with only a very slight swell. Loading the bikes was a bit af a laugh as the strapping down is done by the rider and as there were a few bikes returnng from the TT it was a bit frantic. The ship has plenty of entertainment, including 2 cinemas, 3 bars, cafe, shopping, disco, 2 restaurants and gym, even an indoor pool! After a quick shower and it was straight to the main lounge for a beer and listen to the live band. Before we knew it, it's 2am and the bands still playing. Back to the cabin for a well earned sleep. Missed breakfast so used our breakfast vouchers against the buffet lunch. On arrival in Stavanger it was a mad rush to get the straps off then a long wait for imigration formalities. A bit layed back these Norwegians with only FJR policeman doing the passport checks for all drivers/riders.
Finally we're out the gate and on our way. Heading north we take our first tunnel with a length of 1.5 miles under the sea which we had just sailed on, then a few bridges and the first ferry. Just making it before the last sailing of the night, it's straight on with no tickets. As Ash rides onboard the ramp is up and we're moving before Ash's sidestand is down. 88 krona for the 2 bikes and riders and 5 miles later we're landing again. Mad dash to Odda and then left towards Utne and the first mistake, we're on the wrong side of Sorfjorden. It's 1am and the next ferry is 06:30, opposite the ferry ticket office is a small hotel, it's lights are on, there are people sitting outside drinking and chatting, "coffee?" says Ash, "why not". We are sitting outside a hotel at 1:30, the laptop is plugged into the mains to see if we can get an internet connection, the coffee is free, it's a mild night and it still isn't dark! Where do we sleep? In the ferry waiting room! The doors unlocked, the heatings on and there are some benches, why not?
Tues 12th June.
06:00 we're up and about taking a walk around the port as the ferry approaches, 06:25 we are onboard and off across the fjord. Next stop Oppdel.
On the way to Oppdel we had the opportunity to ride one of the highest roads in Norway and as we were nearby it seemed like a good idea.
The road approaching the top of the mountain was like riding up from Saints harbour but with hairpins. On the way up we came a cross an observation platform, stuck out over the cliff, it provided a fantastic view.
As we climbed the mountain you could feel the cold thin air but the road was perfect, twisty, a great surface, completely dry and void of any traffic.
Not all the roads were billiard table smooth and the gps did lie a few times, they were programmed not to go off road, so, after 40km of gravel roads we sort of got used to it! Great for a BMW GS but not so good for sporty touring bikes, no damage done though. Staying at a Quality Hotel in Oppdel, FJR twin room 1100 krone/room (£100) and 85 krone for 2 large beers. This could be a rather dry trip or an expenve one!
Wed 13th June.
Oppdel 10am. After a great meal which included reindeer, and an equally good nights sleep, we leave for the Arctic Circle center, 425 miles of clear roads with great scenery we arrive at the center just as the cafe closed at about 6:15pm. Had a look around the place and bought a few bits for the families. Plenty of snow on the ground and quite chilly but dry. It's a strange feeling knowing that you've ridden all that way and you are at 66deg north, and you're in the Arctic Circle, fantastic. Ok, time to get going and ride southwest to Mo I Rana for the night stop. Mo I Rana is rather an industrial town with a large port devoted allmost entirely to supporting oil platforms. We stay in the best hotel in town, the Mayergarden Hotel,not by choice it's just it was the only one with rooms. Oh by the way, It's 1:00am as I write this and still daylight!
Thurs 14th June.
Leaving Mo I Rana fairly early and we are heading for the west coast to do some fjords. Whilst heading down the E6 towards Trondheim we come across a line of traffic in the middle of knowhere. I thought the road had been quiet for a while with no traffic coming in the other direction, perhaps an accident. We filter down the outside to find the road blocked for a dipe to be laid across it. Coach passengers we spoke to had been there for over an hour and the wern't the first to have arrived. FJR digger, 2 trucks, and various workmen had laid a pipe, at least 8 feet below the road and back filled it in under 2 hours. Just as well as there was no alternative route, you'd have thought they could have done it at night!
Once we had cleared the roadworks we were on our way to one of the 4 ferry crossings we needed to get along the west coast. It's so easy to get on and off theese ferries and the longest wait we had was 20 minutes, they also have a cafe on board so you can get a coffee or even ahot dog or ice cream, and so clean and tidy.
Sunday 17th June
Sunday and we are heading toward Stavanger and our last night in Norway. More empty roads, fjords and ferries, a bit more of a relaxing day taking in the scenery. Ash is nursing a rapidly thinning rear tyre and I have an annoying bearing noise coming from the front wheel, other than that all is ok. Today we're not leaving it late to try and find a hotel, in fact we've decided to go to the SAS Radisson in Stavanger, not because stinking rich bikers living on a low tax, tax haven island, but simply because it's easy to find and your almost guarenteed a room! On the way we are looking for bike shops or tyre shops as Ash reckons the rear won't get him back home.
We arrive a little after lunch time and we are at the hotel check in, "we have underground parking arranged for you sir" and "the indoor pool, sauna and gym are available 24 hrs". Sometimes you just have to 'step it up a gear'.
After a snooze, rearrange the bags, shower, swim (Ash) and drink the last of the whisky we're off for a tour of Stavanger, well the pubs to be honest. After navigating our way in the opposite direction to where all the bars are (oops) we finally found our way to the old port area of the city and all the bars. Beer is not cheap in Norway and not at all cheap in the cities either, we were trying very hard not to have to put the plastic in the wall for more krona! After a few hours sitting outside and under the electric patio heaters it was time for another good dinner, this time we went Indian.
A leisurely walk back to the hotel and an early night was on the cards and very welcome.
Monday 18th June
The ferry for Newcastle leaves at about 10pm so we have a plan to get Ash a tyre and then go for a ride on one of the most 'interesting' roads.
Tyres aren't cheap (there's a surprise) and you have to take the wheel off too and then to top it all, you can't pay with a credit card or any of the cards that both of us have either. So, Ash leaves me as a deposit (?) and he's off to the bank in the nearest town to get cash.
After a short while we are on our way and heading around the outskirts of Stavanger and into the hills. We are climbing and climbing for miles until we get into the snow, patchy stuff this time. The roads on the way up are wide with long sweeping bends and absolutely no traffic then, as we reach the summit we are on narrow single track roads, it's very high up with fantastic views across the peaks.
Then after a few miles we start the descent, hairpin after hairpin until we reach the cafe.
You may not believe this, but under the road that's in the above picture, is a tunnel, this tunnel descends into the mountain then, does a 180 deg turn and continues descending almost to sea level. Take a look at the print below taken from Garmin Mapsource. The road number is the 500, look it up on a map, it's near Lysefjorden.
The 500 and the tunnel are single track and it amazed us that this road is used by coaches to reach the cafe. As for the tunnel, I don't remember seeing any passing places!
Once we finally get down to sea level, we decide to take the ferry back to Stavanger. This is a 2.5 hour ferry trip and costing about £24 but trust me, well worth it.
The ferry was the standard double ender and 3 lanes wide, and the skipper's (2) could put the thing just about anywhere, they put us into a gully with only 6ft either side. I later found out from my father, that Cunard's ship 'Caronia' on which he worked for 17 years, used to anchor in this very same fjord.
As we make our way down the fjord we come across a couple who appear to have climbed down the cliff to a concrete dock and hailed a lift. There is no road to this dock, I could'nt even see a path just a sledge type thing attached to a pully.
We pull in, drop the ramp and we're off again, onto the next place which is a few holiday homes and a small dock. The only permanent resident is a French woman who had moved there some years ago. The long building is a former power station, fed by the water coming down from the mountain. The door in the cliff is the entrance to the new power station.
As we make our way along the fjord we witness crazy people 'base jumping' then coming into land on the shore. and people say we're mad?
Continuing down the fjord we come across dissused farms and further along, holiday homes for the rich Norwegians, we are passed by super looking yachts and faster ferries but it's such a nice day, who cares. Next point of interest is the 'Pulpit Rock' which is a 25 m/sq plateaux just over 600 metres above sea leval You can sit on the edge with your feet dangling over the fjord.
As we head further west the fjord widens, we are now close to Stavanger and the end of our last day in Norway. After a short ride we are in Stavanger and waiting to board the ferry back to Newcastle. The crossing is the same as on the way out, the sea is calm but the bar/disco is buzzing. On stage it's the same band as on the way out, just brilliant. A good nights sleep and a lay in the next morning, lunch in one of the restaurants then it's back to the cabin for an hours snooze. We are woken by the crew wanting to get the cabin ready for the next sailing 2 hours before we dock, so, it's pack and get out on deck to see our arrival into Newcastle.
We are off the boat at about 6pm and strait to top up with fuel, we have a long run ahead all the way to Weymouth. There is no direct route to Weymouth so we head to the nwest to pick up the M6 to the M5 and down towards Dorset. The weather is dodgy to say the least, the sky to the west is black with heavy clouds. Ash makes a run for it, he's not hanging around, me, i'll take my time and keep to near the speed limits. Ash has the hotel in his GPS so he'll be settled in by the time I get there. I'm about 1.5hrs behind by the time I get to Weymouth, I get to the hotel and Ash is waiting outside! "No booking Quinny" say's Ash "Angie booked it 5hrs ago there must be a room" I said but after some faffing it about, we find that this perticular hotel group has 2 hotels in Weymouth!
Up at 6 for the Condor home, I don't really want to get back on the bike, even for the short ride to the ferry, I've had enough!
Would I go again?
Flippin' right! The fantastic scenery, the empty roads and the friendly people is enough to get me back in a couple of years.